汉米尔顿爵士大师系列停走怎么办

本文由W&W专业腕表测评网站出品

发条鱼原创翻译

Hamilton, the American watch brand now under the Swatch Group umbrella, has had a strong year with well-received launches like their Intra-Matic 68 Chronograph. Recently, the brand announced the Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve Watch – a contemporary, dressy offering that boasts a long power reserve and good bang for your buck. A good looking watch, it can verge on uninspiring, but let's take a look at what value is provided here.

汉密尔顿Hamilton作为斯沃琪集团旗下的美国手表品牌，于今年巴塞尔展会上推出了广受欢迎的Intra-Matic 68自动计时码表获得强势的一年。 最近，品牌发布了汉密尔顿爵士系列动储手表， 诠释现代创新精神，搭载拥有80小时动力储存的全新H-13机芯。 手表外观惊艳，让我们来看看这款手表有什么值得关注的亮点。

Hamilton, has several lines of watches such as the Khaki Field, Broadway, and in this case, the Jazzmaster. Each collection is well defined – for example, the Khaki Field line consists of field watches while the Jazzmaster seems, from a quick glance at the collection, to consist of dressy watches with a slight twist to the design to make them more edgy or modern. It's quite a range, from watches like this quite conservative piece to something as wild as the Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II watch.

汉密尔顿生产多个系列的手表，例如卡其野战，百老汇等，这款腕表则属于爵士系列。每个系列都有明确的定义，例如，卡其野战系列都是40年代汉米尔顿军表的风格，而爵士系列更像是各个系列产品的综合，都是由设计上稍作修改的使其更前卫或更具现代感的精美表款组成。从相当保守军表到Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II腕表，跨度还是相当大的。

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve is best described as a simple dress watch with contemporary sizing. With a 42mm case size and 50m of water resistance, this is sized and designed more like a sport watch than a dress watch but the dial elements and design are clearly dressier. With a minimal bezel, sloping tapered lugs, polished case band and simple, fluted crown, the case has a refined appearance.

汉密尔顿爵士系列动力储备更准确来说应该是一款大小合适的简约正装表，42毫米的表壳尺寸和50米的防水深度，这个尺寸和设计更像一块运动手表而不是正装表，不过再看表盘元素的设计显然更偏向正装表。采用最小的表圈，倾斜的锥形表耳，抛光表壳和简约凹槽表冠，有一个精致秀气的外观。

There are four dial color options – white, black, gold, and silver. All dials but the black are pictured in this article. While the white dial has a matte finish, the rest come with a sunburst finish. Compared to the pop and sheen of the sunburst dials, the matte white can look a little 'flat' ，however, this may appeal to collectors looking for something more inconspicuous. I personally know several people who prefer this matte look as opposed to sunburst, and it's really just a matter of taste.

有四种表盘颜色可选： 白色，黑色，金色和银色。所有表盘颜色除了黑色在本文中都能找到对应图片。白色表盘是经过磨砂打磨效果，其余的则采用太阳纹打磨处理。与太阳纹表盘的时尚感和光泽相比，哑光白色看起来似乎有点“平”，不过这可能会吸引收藏家寻找更不起眼的东西。 我个人就认识几个喜欢这种磨砂外观而不是太阳纹表盘的人，不过这其实只是个人喜好的问题。

The watch is fitted with luminous dauphine hands – blue in color for the silver dial, polished steel for the black and gold dials, and gold in color for the white dial. Plenty of choice to go around here. An odd choice, was to use a blue color power reserve indicator hand for all dials except the black . I feel like the watch would be better off with a power reserve hand that was of the same color as the hour and minute hands.

这款腕表搭配有夜光指针，银色表盘的指针为蓝色，黑色和金色表盘的指针则为抛光钢，白色表盘的指针为金色。指针方面有足够多的选择。 奇怪的一点是，除了黑色以外的所有表盘都使用蓝色的动力储备指示针， 我觉得动力储备指示针的颜色与时针和分针颜色相同会更好。

The applied hour markers and the applied Hamilton logo at the top of the dial is a nice touch and gives the watch a more premium look. What isn't a nice touch however, is the date window. It's no secret that I'm not a fan of date windows, especially when they seem sloppily executed like in the case of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve. The placement of the window on the dial betrays how small the diameter of the movement is. Additionally, the white of the date wheel contrasts in an unpleasant way with the gold and silver dials. Thankfully, the black dial comes with a black date wheel – so this is the one I would go for.

表盘顶部的小时标记和汉米尔顿的logo是个不错的设计，手表看起来更有质感。但是日期显示的设计就没那么好看了。说实话，我对日期显示并不感冒，特别是这款表的日期显示与动力储备显示放在一起很不协调。表盘上的窗口的位置也暴露了机芯的直径有多小。 而且，日期窗口的白色与金色和银色的表盘形成鲜明对比，看着很扎眼。还好黑色表盘搭配的是黑色日期窗口，所以说我更愿意入手这款。

If we're being honest, the watch does not bring anything to the table design-wise that hasn't been seen before. What it does offer that makes it interesting is the movement. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve is powered by the caliber H-13 movement with 80-hour power reserve. There is limited information online on the product page or elsewhere on the H-13. But given that Hamilton is part of the Swatch Group, we can take a leap of faith and assume that it is a similar, if not the same, movement found in the Tissot Powermatic 80. Essentially, it is a modified ETA 2824 with timekeeping rate lowered to 3Hz, a longer mainspring, and a new escapement in place.

讲老实话，这系列手表在外观设计上没有太多创新的明智之举。比较有意思的是它在机芯上做了创新改变。 这系列动力储备表款由H-13机芯提供动力，动力储备为80小时。 H-13机芯的产品介绍和详情在网上都很少。不过考虑到汉密尔顿是斯沃琪集团旗下的，我们大可以猜想，这些机芯都是差不多的，可能跟天梭的Powermatic 80机芯差不多。本质上，它应该就是一个基于ETA2824的改良机芯，将计时率降低到3Hz，更长的发条和新的擒纵机构。

While this isn't haute horology or particularly rare, it makes for a nice change from the plethora of ETA 2824/2892 offerings at this price point. The movement comes with some decoration – primarily on the rotor and is visible through a display back.

虽然并不是顶级腕表也不特别罕见的技术，但是在这个价位，它将ETA 2824/2892机芯做了很难得的创新改变，机芯同样经过精细打磨，主要体现在自动盘上，通过背透设计清晰可见。

While it is unlikely to be heralded and celebrated like its sibling, the Intra-Matic 86 Chronograph, the Jazzmaster Power Reserve is a well put together watch for someone looking to start a collection or for a simple daily wearer for the office. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Power Reserve will be available from late November on a leather strap for a price of $1,245 or a 5-link stainless steel bracelet for $1,295.

虽然它不可能像兄弟系列一样被称为“Intra-Matic 86 Chronograph”，但是爵士动力储备是一个很好的组合，可以满足想要收藏腕表的人或者想要一块出入办公场所日常佩戴的正装表的表友。汉密尔顿爵士动力储备系列将于11月底出售，皮表带表款1245美元（8256人民币），钢带表款1295美元（8587人民币）。